In the
summer of 2009, I was on a (18 days) High-Altitude Mountaineering expedition
between Gangotri and Kedarnath. After having mesmerizing experience of 4 days
through Gangotri we had to rappel down the Auden’s col (high pass 150 feet high
Ice wall) to enter the snow field of Khatling Glacier. This snowfield was
infamous for more than 50 fatalities due to hidden crevasses. The conditions
became riskier with the complete white-out (visibility of 10m) after the
snowfall happened a day before. We were not able to see all members in the line
who were rope-up for the safety.
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| Jai Singh leading the rope |
55-year-old Nepali
Sherpa (Jai Singh) was leading our rope from the front. I was second in the row
tied up in a common rope with other 6 members. There was a of avalanche from
the steep walls as the snow as fresh and had chance to slip over us. So, we
decided to be in active mode to keep us warm without pitching a tent in the
snow field. The attempt to go further down trail without visibility was a high
risk. After circling round for some time, we decided to take the chance as our body
was getting cold without food.
With every
slow-moving step on the high snow I was observing the surface with my feet and
ski poles. If accidently I or anybody in the rope falls into a crevasse, I
should be ready. I was aware of the rope tension so that there shouldn’t be
much slag to reduce the impact of jerk in case of fall. Ice axe was ready in my
hand to hit the floor to arrest the fall. Eyes were watchful. Breath was
helping me to distribute equal weight on both the legs. These thoughts come to
me now, I don’t remember what I was thinking during that time, but I was ready
without a doubt. I was in the state of mindfulness, I was 100% alive.
And suddenly
Jai Sigh fall into a crevasse. Without any time, I drop myself on the ground
with the Ice-axe to make an anchor to arrest him. Everybody did the same back
in the rope. Time stopped for us. I don’t remember how much time it took for
Jai Singh to come out, but he managed it without any major injury. Then we
quickly changed our route of progression.
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| At Khatling Glacier |
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| Core Members |
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| Above kedarnath |
